Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Cute and Beautiful Mango

A cute boy made me buy expensive pineapple today. He saw me waiting to cross the street and gave me a huge smile and wave, pineapple in hand. I looked behind me, usually my first reaction. When I realized that he was smiling at me, I swore in my head, if I had been walking I would crossed the street elsewhere, but I was already waiting. I knew he would make me taste his pineapple. I crossed the street and tried to stay in the middle of crowd, but he had me marked. He cut a piece and made me eat it. Then he grabbed my hand (he had soft hands) and pulled me over to the pineapple truck. Then he charged me 4000 won for a bag of cut pineapple. At first he wanted me to buy three bags, what would I do with three bags of pineapple? I paid and quickly left, rather embarrassed. I was on my way to Dunkin Donuts for an iced coffee beverage (it was that kind of day). After I bought my coffee, I took the long way back to school so that I wouldn’t have to pass the pineapple sellers again.

And on Saturday I transvestite made me eat his candy. I was rushing to the subway to meet Sarah as she passed through Ssangmun. A transvestite was talking into a microphone in front of the LG store. I just assumed it was for a LG promotion (usually dancing girls in little tiny skirts are the promotion, I kind of liked this change). However, as I drew I near, I could see him single me out, I tried to walk faster. No good, he caught my arm and pulled me over to a table while yelling things at me. On the table was a nougat type traditional candy. He continued to yell things at me and then grabbed my hand (he was wearing gloves) and forced me to take a piece of candy. I took it and quickly ate it, assuring him it was delicious, but that I was in a hurry. As I rushed away, he continued to yell at me. It wasn’t a mean yelling, just a loud yelling.

Easter Sunday, I was walking past a church and some kids (in church sashes, Korean Christians love their sashes) were handing out hardboiled eggs. As I walked past I could see them whispering. Then two of them finally got up the courage. They ran over to me, shoved three hard-boiled eggs in my hand and then giggled. I said thank-you (in Korean) and then said “Happy Easter”. They were rather tickled at this.

Sometimes I hate hate hate standing out all the time. I never blend here, I can never just disappear into a crowd or go unnoticed. However, clearly, being an visible outsider has its advantages sometimes. Like the ladies in the grocery store under the school know Sally’s and my name. The ladies in the Kimbap place know what we like to eat and despite them know zero English, we can still joke around. Sometimes people are so excited to have us in their restaurants and they give us free stuff. I don’t know if this makes it worth being so obvious all the time, but it makes it not so bad.

But tragedy! The Kimbap restaurant shut down today! It is totally closed and gutted. Does this mean the end of Kimbap? Do you know how far the nearest one is? Like four blocks and I have to cross a street. Also, I was really excited to show off Bryan to the ladies. They would have laughed at him so much. I am actually heart broken. There were four different women who worked there and one man and they were all so friendly and funny. I am hoping it is just a reno, but I’m not hopeful. Stuff changes so fast here, it will probably become something lame, like a store full of cute clothing that I can wear.

Monday, April 13, 2009

Pictures of Cherry Blossom Festival - Amber's Camera

At the Korean Folk Village. This man is being tortured.
During our walk up the Korea Scenic Road. From the left: Amber, Dee, The Friend, Song-Hoon, Sarah
Like when I am photographed with my family.
On the Korea Scenic Road. These are green tea fields.
At the Folk Village, Amber made me wear this hat and pose. Then she told me the story. Apparently, when child pee the bed, the parents make the put on these hats and then go to the neighbours house and ask for salt.
Eating boiled silk worms in the morning. Delicious.
On the Korea Scenic Road.
Man or mannequin? At a toll booth.
These girls wanted to have their picture taken with us. Being white makes us celebrities in Korea.
At the first temple. Lanterns for Buddha's upcoming birthday.

Sunday, April 12, 2009

Cherry Blossom Festival Part Three - The End and Then Some

After breakfast on Sunday morning, we started walking in what I thought was the direction of the Cherry Blossom Festival. We started walking up the Korea Scenic Road. It was beautiful, the road was lined on both sides with Cherry Trees all in full flower. The road was on the side of a hill, below the road were fields of green tea and then a small river.
Also, lining the road were many food stands including plastic restaurants, all serving some sort of shellfish and soju. I actually think we could have had soju at 8:30 in the morning at one of these establishments.
Song-Hoon and his friend bought us a couple cups of bongdiggy (total guess at spelling), which is just boiled silk worms. You have to eat them with a tooth pick. They smell absolutely heinous but actually rather tasty, but I don’t really like eating them. I had my first encountered at Halloween when I didn’t wear to a costume to Amber’s party and they made eat some cold. The boiled worms were much better, but I think that fried would be best. There were also many people selling rice pop from the back of trucks. A lot of nougat stands and many waffle dots (similar to the waffle fish but in bite sized pieces). After we had been walking for a while, the friend bought us some rice pops, basically rice cakes, but a little more delicious and easier to eat.
We walked for a few hours, gradually up hill. There were many people walking with us. Lots of families and lots of couples. In Korea it is cool for couples to wear matching clothing. The matching couples were out in abundance. Some just wore the same t-shirt, but many couples had shirts that were his and hers, like a girl cut and boy cut. Lots of couples also wear matching shoes. We tried to count the number of people in couples shirts, but quickly lost count. There were also many matching families.
At the end of the walk, we ended up on a hill at a Buddhist temple. This temple and many buildings to explore and some cool sculptures. This was mostly a tourist temple.
After the temple, we stopped at a roadside restaurant close to the temple. We sat on the patio behind the restaurant. We couldn’t see the people walking by, it was very secluded and peaceful. Behind the restaurant was just a forest with a stream running through it. It was a perfect place for seafood pancakes and dongdongju, a creamy rice wine served chilled. Because we got up so early and ate breakfast so early, this lunch like pit stop was at about 11:00, on a Sunday morning. Dongdongju is my favourite Korean alcohol so far. This was the second time I have had it. Apparently if you over do it, the hangover is worst thing ever, I am curious.
After the restaurant, we stumbled into what appeared to be a Green Tea Festival at the Tea Cultural Museum (I’m not kidding). We sat down for a sort of traditional green tea ceremony. The lady who served us, had to go through a number of different things before she actually pored the tea. First, she pored hot water into all the cups. Then she pored the water back into her bowl, then she put the tea leaves into a pot, then she pored the water into the tea pot then she held the pot for a long time. Then she pored the tea back into the bowl through a strainer. Finally she pored the tea into our cups. After well finished she put more water into the bowl, which she then pored into the pot, and held it again for awhile. This round was much stronger than the first. We drank about five cups of tea (they were very tiny cups). The lady who was poring the tea spoke a little bit of English. She had been to India to study yoga and she talked about that a bit. She was really cool and her green tea was delicious.
After the tea ceremony, we headed to the bar that set up at the Green Tea Festival. We didn’t drink, alas, but we sure tried. The bar had dart game, for a small fee, you could pay for free drinks. The friend made all of us girls try. None of us were successful. I suppose that was a good thing, both Sarah and Amber gave up alcohol for lent. Then we started the long walk down the hill. We walked for many hours on Sunday. At the bottom of the hill, the Cherry Blossom festivities were underway. There was a traditional market set up, all sorts of things were being sold. Amber pointed out some serving trays and some figurines that were beyond phallic. They were actually penises. I didn’t think to take a picture.
We left the Cherry Blossom Festival and started driving to a different place. At least I am pretty sure that we had one more destination, perhaps a Taoist community? I’m not sure. When we got there, if we got there, I’m not sure if we got there, it was closed or we couldn’t go inside, I’m not sure. However, what I am sure of is that we stopped driving and took a short driving break and then the car staled. Sarah, Amber, and I all had to pee and as there were no restrooms around, we headed over the road and down a hill into a bamboo forest to relieve our bladders. As we hiked down a little ways, we stumbled upon burial mounds on the side of the hill. They were obviously maintained because the grass was cut around them, but you couldn’t see them from the road. It was pretty cool. We hoped that we couldn’t be cursed for peeing on ancient emperors or something.
We got back to the car, got in and it wouldn’t start. Good thing we were in the middle of nowhere.
The boys popped the hood (as if they new something about cars, not likely) and peered into the nether regions. Fortunately, a couple drove by and stopped to help. The man, had a whole tool kit in the back of his SUV, including gloves and arm protectors (so you don’t get your shirt dirty). He had the car running pretty soon. I don’t know what had been the problem but we were driving again.
And we drove and drove and drove some more and then kept driving. We had car troubles at about 5:00 and didn’t get back home until after midnight. We only had one stop between then and home: a rest stop for supper.

I guess that is end of the Cherry Blossom Adventure.

A couple weeks ago, I was at a Greek Restaurant that had Canadian coffee on the menu. I had no idea what that could possibly mean. What is Canadian coffee? As I was thinking about this, absently starring into the kitchen at the Tim Hortons cans, I suddenly struck me. They serve Tim Hortons coffee. The Tim Hortons logo is apparently such a familiar site in my life (in Canada), I didn’t even notice that the cans were out of place in Korea. Canadian coffee, too bad Tim Hortons coffee sucks so much.

Later that same night...

Taking a taxi home from Hongdae, after seeing Pillow Fighter, Sarah, Amber, and I had a most interesting driver. We were discussing if we had enough cash to get home and the driver told us he also took credit cards and he seemed really proud that he could accept cards. Apparently, he knew English. Later, after he dropped off Sarah and Amber, he started talking to me. He wanted to know where I was from and if I was a student (oddly, I get asked that quite a bit, “are you a student?” A student of what? I thought that I was obviously an English teacher, especially living in Ssangmun, I guess I look too young) and if I liked Korea. He was surprised when I said that I like Korea a lot. He told me that his parents-in-law live in Quebec and his wife is always begging to go to Canada. He told me he had a two-year-old son, a 14-year-old daughter, and 13-year-old daughter (notice he started with the son). I said “wow, 14, 13 and 2?!”, he said “yeah, he was a mistake! I asked my wife why we need a son, she is 42! We are old!” And I think he charged me less than normal because the whole ride was only about 15,000 won and usually it is closer to 20,000 won. He was kind and funny and not creepy. That is my favourite kind of taxi driver.

Saturday, April 11, 2009

Blossom Festical Part Two - The Jjimjilbang

After we learned there was enough room in the jjimjilbang, we had to find some supper. Once you enter the jjimjilbang you cannot leave until you are done at the jjimjilbang. Song-Hoon was very tired and decided to just go in and not join us for supper, leaving his young friend who spoke no English alone with Sarah, Amber, and I. Originally, we (Sarah) wanted samgupsal, but not being in Seoul meant that all the restaurants were closed for the night (it was 10:00!). After the samgupsal failure, we decided on easy kimbap, and even this was also difficult. We had seen a few kimbap houses on our adventures in finding a hotel. However, now that we actually tired to find one in which to eat, we could find nothing. We wondered around for a while. The friend, asked a few people that we meet and eventually we found a restaurant that was open that had kimbap that was directly in front of the jjimjilbang.
This restaurant was not a kimbap house, the ubiquitous orange establishments that serve a variety of kimbap, soups, stews, and rice dishes. It was a mom and pop operation. The concrete walls of the restaurant had been painted (a long time ago and poorly) half baby blue and half white. The artwork on the walls included a Mona Lisa puzzle that someone took the time to glue together and frame. There was also a few faded landscapes (not puzzles, too bad) and a calendar from a bank. The restaurant had a funny smell and the windows were frosted completely so you couldn’t see in or out. Clrealy a classy joint. The owners, a couple, were sitting at a table when we entered, which they immediately vacated and offered to us because it was nearest to the heater. They restaurant called Guatemala to mind. This did not bode well.
They only had of about 6 items, including ramyeon, kimbap (only original), bibimbop (not dolset), and kimchi juggae (stew). Sarah and I opted for the 3000 won bibimbop and Amber and the friend ordered kimchi juggae, also about 3000 or 4000 won. The women went back to the kitchen area and soon we heard pots banging and things frying. About 15 minuets later (which is kind of long by Korean standards) the man carried out a huge tray. He placed the tray down on the table. It contained 7 or 8 side dishes including a whole fish of some sort and many delicious varieties of kimchi and greens in sauces. Then we got the food we ordered. Or meal, less than 15,000 won, was amazing, some of the tasty bibimbop I have had. After the meal, the friend paid because he felt guilty about not being able to find us samgupsal. Then we crossed the street and took the elevator to the fourth floor, the jjimjilbang.
A jjimjilbang is sort of a spa with hot tubs, showers, sauna’s, steam rooms, and cold rooms. There is also a large communal room to hang out, sleep, use the Internet, eat ice cream and drink beer. (You can even drink beer in the saunas!) We paid 7000 won each. We were given two hand-sized towels each, keys to our lockers, and a matching set of shorts and a t-shirt. Awesome. I walked into the locker room and immediately encounter my first naked Korean women and then my second, third, forth, fifth, sixth, and 90th. I saw many naked women during our time at the jjimjilbang, naked women of all ages, shapes, and sizes (at least as varied as Korean women get, which isn’t much). I choose not to participate in the nudity. I had no wish to be stared at by hordes of women. Perhaps if I would stand out a little less, I would be more inclined. I quickly pulled on my shorts and t-shirt.
Amber and I headed down to the saunas and communal room, while Sarah choose to get naked. I sat in the coldest sauna room and was soon sweating like cold cup of water in a hot room. We didn’t stay very long. After Sarah was done her shower, we found sleeping mats for the three of us, and with great difficult, found a spot on the floor, amongst sprawled families, spooning couples, and drunken men. Song-Hoon had previously warned us that we should not let drunk men touch our bodies. Good advice I think. Once we claimed our spot we got some ice cream, while we were doing this Song-Hoon told us to go to sleep because we had to get up really early the next morning. He wanted to leave by seven. Thanks Dad.
I found it very difficult to sleep. It was like every man in the room was my dad prior to the sleep machine. Including the man closest to me, who made some other sounds that were possible indications of real good dreams, if you know what I mean. Ewww!
I slept in little spats, constantly waking up. Then, the friend was suddenly shaking me awake. I think he woke me up first because mine was the only name he could remember (Dee). It was 6:00 AM! I woke up the other girls and we carefully tiptoed though the masses of people. There was almost no floor space left on which to walk. As we quietly made our way through the masses of snoring people, Sarah banged her head on the corner of the flat screen TV. It fell off the wall, onto a sleeping couple and smashed on the floor. Obviously they woke up, in some pain. The whole ordeal was loud, waking up everybody in the area. Although most people just stirred and then went back to sleep. The TV was lying the floor, the screen was broken and the couple was hurt, we stood there for a moment trying to decide what to do. It was so scary, we were worried the couple was really hurt and worried that we would have to pay for the TV. I’m just joking. Sarah did hit her head, but the TV didn’t fall. Almost made a really good story though, right?
Back in the locker, changing into real world clothes and washing up, I constantly was having to avoid bumping into naked women. So awkward.
For breakfast, we drove into the down where the cherry blossom festival was actually going to happen. In Korean, breakfast is the same as lunch and dinner, there is no special breakfast food. We went to a restaurant and Song-Hoon ordered a meal for which this part of the country is famous. It was soup that was just broth and some sort of shell fish. It actually wasn’t very delicious. It wasn’t bad, just lacked flavour and kick. However, breakfast also came with no less than 8 side dishes, all of which were pretty much delicious. The restaurant was floor seating only and kind of hole. Apparently, when eating in the country, these are the places to visit.

Cherry Blossom Festival Part One - Friday Night and Sataurday

Tasha told me during the second last break at school on Friday that all of the teachers were going out for supper. I don’t know when it was planned, but at least they told me this time. After school, the teacher, Mr. Kim, the director, and the bus drivers went to a near by samgupsal place. This was the place that shut down very suddenly, was completely renovated, reopened in about two weeks under a new name, and under new ownership. Being the only foreigner, (Sally didn’t come because she was sick) I just sat there quietly eating the never-ending supply of samgupsal, and drink the endless flow of beer. Occasionally, I was called upon to answer questions about Bryan and his visit. (“Yes, of course he is handsome.” “Three months”. “Yes, that is a long time, but not long enough”. “No, I have made no plans. He can easily entertain himself”. “No, I don’t have a picture”...etc.) However, I was clearly not getting drunk alone. Skinny Korean girls get drunk fast. Soon there was much laughter and joking and the director tells us he’s getting married in Korean, there was a pause and then the ladies all make loud exclamations and and clapped their hands and I had no idea what was going on and then they looked at me expectantly and I stared back blankly. Finally Tasha told me the director was getting married. I gave the appropriate expected reaction.
Most of the teachers are married and many have children, so I figured dinner and home. I was wrong, of course the director wanted to go to a noraebang, so at about 12:30 we rolled out and I followed along. This is the first time I have properly noreabanged with Korean females. It was awesome. They sang all the best songs too. Gee Gee Gee, Nobody, and other hits that were before my time. I sang To Be With You and everybody knew it. And later I sang Complicated and then politely took my leave. It was already past 2:00 and I knew I would have wake up at 5:00.
After a solid two hour sleep, I was up and atom at 5:00. I had to meet Sarah and Amber at 6:15. All the people on the subway were very tired looking, a combination of those going to work and those coming home from partying. In the past I have only been on the subway that early on my way home. It felt very different to be headed out instead of headed home. We went to Jamsil to meet Song-Hoon and his friend, whose name I don’t know and never learned although I spent the rest of the weekend with him. They had rented a car for the weekend because it was cheaper than taking the train and we could go to more places. We were on the road by eight. Obviously, I fell asleep almost as soon as we were driving.
Our first stop was a rest stop, Korean style, which means extra awesome. We just grabbed some snacks and used the facilities. The boys, had a breakfast of Ramyeon (noodles). The girls grabbed chips and cookies. We almost got to use the batting cages at the rest stop, but they were broken. Damn it.
Our first real stop included a hike up to a real Buddhist temple. The kind where monks actually live. It’s for worshiping, not just site seeing. Although, we were there for site seeing. Apparently Buddha’s birthday is coming soon and the temple was decorated with colourful lamps. Song-Hoon warned me not to steal anything. Although there was this great turtle statue that I really wanted to lug home. I think he knows I’m joking.
After this temple we drove for a about an hour more. Our next destination was a Korean folk village. Think Mennonite Heritage Village but with Koreans. I kept asking Song-Hoon about all the traditional Korean things, like the traditional Korean cowboy hats and the traditional Korean giant plastic pens, and the traditional Korean pencil cases and pointing out the traditional Korean CCTV and the traditional Korean fire hydrants. I think he knew that I was joking. (“No, no Dee, they are not traditional, no no” “sure sure Song-Hoon, NOT traditional, sure.”)
Occasionally, the authentic Korean folk village illusion was shattered when we caught those in costumes chatting on their cell phones (hand fones). Also, the giant plastic pens and I don’t think there were any cowboys back in the Unified Sila period, but I could be wrong.
After the folk village, we visited the Sunchoen Bay Wetlands. Think Oak Hammock Marsh but in Korean. We walked on the boardwalk through the wetlands and then climbed a million stairs for a nice view. This prairie girl really hates walking up hills, but it is always worth it when I get to the top. I tend to remember the spectacular view and not the hideous climb to get there.
Down at the bottom again, we snacked on some hard boiled eggs and carried on to find a hotel and place for supper. Both were apparently much more difficult than anticipated. We stopped at one hotel, but it was way out of our price range. We continued to search, unable to find hotels and then finally we did, but they were all full. By this time we had driven Hadong, where this Cherry Blossom festival is held (apparently there are many). All the hotels were full, so in traditional Korean style, we headed to the nearest jjimjilbang.

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

A Fowl Fly Over the Clouds

I finally got the hair cut that I desperately needed. My long hair was getting on my nerves and spent most of its time in tight headache inducing ponytails. I had been thinking getting it cut for a couple of months now, but never had the nerve to actually walk into a salon.
Originally, I planned to go alone because I wanted to surprise everybody with my boldness, but then Sally asked if I wanted to go for a walk on Friday morning, the day of the planned event, so I let her in on my secret and invited her to come along. This was probably a good idea, because I can imagine that I would have chickened out and not had it done. I’m like that.
I decided that I would travel to Hyehwa for the haircut because it is hip and full of young people. I didn’t want to go to a salon around Ssangmun and end up with ajumma hair. We stopped for coffee first and Sally tried to draw the hair cut I wanted. Visual aids are helpful in these situations. They didn’t turn out to well, but I think that extreme littleness of the bangs came through. The baby bangs were thing I wanted the most.
I chose to head towards American Apparel because I had seen three salons that all looked cool around there. We reconnoitered the three shops, assessing the intimidation factor and the level of coolness from each shop and trying to decide with had the cutest stylists. While standing in front of the last shop, I accidentally made eye contact with the receptionist, she could see us debated and laughed. We made one more round, but really the contact settled it.
Deep breath and move in.
The “designer” (as they are called in Korea), who had a fashion mullet, spoke no English at all. However, the receptionist spoke very well. So Sally and I explained what I wanted to her and she explained to him. Once we had finally decided what I wanted, the designer lead me to his chair, strapped on his work belt, pink leopard print, with rows of succors holstered like weapons.
He began to cut. It was like poetry or magic. He was a magician with scissors. It was truly beautiful to watch. I couldn’t take my eyes of his hands, which probably made him really uncomfortable. Or not, he was so focused the task that he might not have noticed that I was watching him.
Meanwhile, Sally was talking with receptionist. Sally learned all about her kids and their schools. They talked about Bryan and I. They talked about teaching English. They talked for a long time.
Eventually, the designer had to ask a couple of questions about my bangs, which I wanted really really really short. He had to ask the receptionist, we discussed and eventually decided on a length satisfactory for both of us. I have what I believe is called a widow’s peak, which makes really sort bangs kind of tricky. In grade six, Mrs. Reimer said that widow’s peak’s were beautiful and since then I have always though myself special for having one, until the day I realized that I look silly with my hair pulled back and nobody can see it anyway and it makes having proper baby bangs impossible. Curse the widow and her damn peak.
After he cut the bangs, he took me over to a sink to wash my hair (yes, after the cut, I though it was strange too). I love having my hair washed. It’s my favourite part of the hair cut. After he washed it, he brought me back to the chair, he dried it, assessed the cut, and then cut some more, including a thinning, which I was worried wouldn’t happen. Finally, he cleaned the hair off my shoulders and face (using a sponge type thing instead of the broom type brush thing with which I am more familiar), styled it, played with it a bit more, then finally bent down so that his face was level with mine in the mirror and smiled at me for the first time and said something in Korean. My first Korean haircut was complete. After I paid, the receptionist gave me a Tootsie Pop and a Brazilian chocolate. Why Brazil? I don’t know.
My short hair did not go over well with the students, when I got to school, kids started making fun of me, telling me I was not pretty and that I look like a guy from some Korean TV drama. And the teachers kept asking me if I had a reason. Usually a girl needs a reason, like a break up. One boy was nice. He asked me if I had a hair cut and then he said that it looked pretty. I could have hugged him. I almost gave him candy. Lots of Korean women have short hair, lots of pretty Korean women have short hair. I don’t know why mine was such a shock. I don’t really like cut either though. I will be happy when it grows out a bit. How long before I can put it in a ponytail again?